Puppy Go Home
When picking up your puppy, here are the things that you should bring with you.
- Contract--Print it and have it filled out. I will add the microchip number when you pick up. You do not have to have a registered name for your puppy, but if you do have one in mind go ahead and add it in. Contract
- Cash--Bring the balance due for your puppy in cash. I do not accept any other form of payment the day of. If you were going to use Venmo, please do so at least one week ahead of pick up so that I have time to get it and have my books up to date.
- Towels--Bring some extra towels for the car ride home. Some puppies will get carsick. We do try to limit food and water for a couple of hours before pick up, but be prepared for a few accidents on the way.
- Collar and Leash--If you do plan to make stops on the way home, bring a collar and leash with you for the puppy. Be very careful on the way home to not stop in any common areas where people normally take dogs for potty breaks. When we are traveling, we tend to stop at exits that have no gas stations or buildings around. Then we find a safe off-road area to stop and potty the dogs. The more common rest areas are more likely to have viruses and parasites that the puppies can pick up. With only one vaccine in their system, it is best to wait to stay away from public places for now.
- Kennel-Some owners choose to hold their puppy on the ride home. If driving alone, the kennel is a must. Otherwise, it is up to you what kennel you may wan to bring.
- Questions-I have had puppy go homes take 5 minutes-2 hours. I am more than willing to answer any questions you have, so bring them with you. We suggest writing them down ahead of time. Once you see the cute puppy, questions tend to magically disappear. Many questions may be answered on out Questions page.
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Food:
Pro Plan Chicken and Rice Sport Kibble 30/20 The puppies are eating ¼-½ cup 3 times a day and that amount will steadily increase as they grow. If they don’t eat it all, remove it in 5-10 minutes. Keep in mind, puppies potty right after eating. Some puppies are not interested in food the first night in their new home. They may be more interested in playing and exploring their environment. Some puppies will act like they are starving to death if they had to miss a meal when traveling. We usually recommend offering a little bit of food when you get home, but do not worry if they are not interested in it yet. They will usually eat great again after a meal or two of picky eating. Don’t let them overeat at a sitting or they may get diarrhea. Slowly wean them down to 2 feedings in 1-2 months. We use maze bowls and snuffle mats to feed the older dogs and slow them down. There are hundreds of toys that make the dogs work for their food. We also feed outside often and spread the food around in the grass, sidewalk, or even on the stairs. The puppies have been exposed to a variety of chewies, including Greenies, Rawhides, cow hooves, bones, Nylabones, and bully sticks. We keep as many chew options as we can around for our dogs and the puppies get their choice. We also use a variety of treats with the puppies when we start clicker training. Some of our favorites are cheese, lunch meat, liver, hot dogs, and Zukes Minis. |
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Vet Care:
A vet visit the first week is always great for getting the puppy looked over again and starting the relationship with the vet. The puppies are due for their next vaccine around 10 weeks old. Discuss the vaccines available with your vet. They will know which diseases are common in your area and what is needed there. Your lifestyle will also decide which vaccines are needed. Boarding, grooming, and classes will require more vaccines than others. Hiking, hunting, camping, or being on a farm will also increase risks. We vaccinate our dogs for DPC at 7, 10, 13, 17 weeks, 1 year old, and 4 years old and then do titers yearly, starting at 7 years old. Most vets offer titers as well as vaccines. We do Lepto and Lyme yearly for life due to where we live. We vaccinate for Rabies around 5-6 months old and then as a 1 year old and every 3 years after that for life. Each state has different laws for vaccines that your vet must follow and some states still require yearly or every 2 year Rabies Vaccines. Bordatella and Influenza vaccines may be required where you live as well for training classes, boarding, and grooming.
We have had a couple of litters that got coccidia after we started feeding all the wild birds, so we have added a preventative for this. Puppies do have a fecal test at 7 weeks old at their vet exam. Despite this, a couple of puppies have had some problems after a week in their new homes, two have had coccidia and one with giardia. There is no way to know if they picked it up at our home or their new homes for sure, but both can show up under stress. Going to a new home is stressful and can result in some stomach problems, so we have started sending a few syringes of dewormer home for that first week.
A vet visit the first week is always great for getting the puppy looked over again and starting the relationship with the vet. The puppies are due for their next vaccine around 10 weeks old. Discuss the vaccines available with your vet. They will know which diseases are common in your area and what is needed there. Your lifestyle will also decide which vaccines are needed. Boarding, grooming, and classes will require more vaccines than others. Hiking, hunting, camping, or being on a farm will also increase risks. We vaccinate our dogs for DPC at 7, 10, 13, 17 weeks, 1 year old, and 4 years old and then do titers yearly, starting at 7 years old. Most vets offer titers as well as vaccines. We do Lepto and Lyme yearly for life due to where we live. We vaccinate for Rabies around 5-6 months old and then as a 1 year old and every 3 years after that for life. Each state has different laws for vaccines that your vet must follow and some states still require yearly or every 2 year Rabies Vaccines. Bordatella and Influenza vaccines may be required where you live as well for training classes, boarding, and grooming.
- Vaccines: DPC at 7 weeks
- Dewormings:
- Pyrantel at 2, 4, 7 weeks
- Toltrazuril at 6 and 8 weeks for 3 days
- Panacur at 5 and 8 weeks for 7 days
- Fecal: 7 weeks
- Heartgard: 7 weeks
- Frontline at 4 and 7 weeks-We use the spray on the smaller puppies and it does not seem to last a whole month like the spot on
We have had a couple of litters that got coccidia after we started feeding all the wild birds, so we have added a preventative for this. Puppies do have a fecal test at 7 weeks old at their vet exam. Despite this, a couple of puppies have had some problems after a week in their new homes, two have had coccidia and one with giardia. There is no way to know if they picked it up at our home or their new homes for sure, but both can show up under stress. Going to a new home is stressful and can result in some stomach problems, so we have started sending a few syringes of dewormer home for that first week.
Microchip:
Register your microchip online into your name. The website is in the baggie in your folder. We have already paid all cost so there is no cost to you to transfer it. Just go to transfer your chip and type in the number and then your information.
Register your microchip online into your name. The website is in the baggie in your folder. We have already paid all cost so there is no cost to you to transfer it. Just go to transfer your chip and type in the number and then your information.
Dewormers:
Some puppies will be going home with some doses of panacur and/or toltrazuril. These do not need to be refridgerated. Give one syringe of each every morning by squirting it to the back of the mouth.
Some puppies will be going home with some doses of panacur and/or toltrazuril. These do not need to be refridgerated. Give one syringe of each every morning by squirting it to the back of the mouth.
Folders:
Your go home folder should contain your vet paperwork, puppy test, microchip information and some extra papers that may vary by breed. These sheets may be in your go home folder. These are here for reference or if you lose them.
MDR1 Information Sheet: This sheet discusses MDR1 genetics in dogs. We will let you know the status of the puppies during picking so you can make an informed decision. Almost all of our litters are N/N and we will never breed a litter that can produce M/M. We very rarely breed litters that can produce M/N. 50% of aussies, <5% of Border Collies, and <1% of English Setters will carry this gene.
Trick Dog: These sheets are for earning trick dog titles. I am still doing evaluations for titles, but am mostly doing them with videos. Go ahead and email me your videos and I can sign off on your trick dog titles. For the people not interested in doing the titles, Kyra's books are a very fun way to use up some of your puppy's energy and have fun training. She now has a variety of books and videos to choose from.
Novice
Intermediate, Advanced, Expert
Champion
Your go home folder should contain your vet paperwork, puppy test, microchip information and some extra papers that may vary by breed. These sheets may be in your go home folder. These are here for reference or if you lose them.
MDR1 Information Sheet: This sheet discusses MDR1 genetics in dogs. We will let you know the status of the puppies during picking so you can make an informed decision. Almost all of our litters are N/N and we will never breed a litter that can produce M/M. We very rarely breed litters that can produce M/N. 50% of aussies, <5% of Border Collies, and <1% of English Setters will carry this gene.
Trick Dog: These sheets are for earning trick dog titles. I am still doing evaluations for titles, but am mostly doing them with videos. Go ahead and email me your videos and I can sign off on your trick dog titles. For the people not interested in doing the titles, Kyra's books are a very fun way to use up some of your puppy's energy and have fun training. She now has a variety of books and videos to choose from.
Novice
Intermediate, Advanced, Expert
Champion
Introducing to older pets:
If you are introducing your puppy to your other dogs, we usually recommend doing it in a more neutral place to start with. Find a safe place to take your other dog and puppy and introduce them. Preferably a place your other dog already likes to go. Then take them home with you from there. Be careful not to introduce your puppy to the older dogs when they may be protective of their favorite bed, toys, and chews.
If you are introducing your puppy to your other dogs, we usually recommend doing it in a more neutral place to start with. Find a safe place to take your other dog and puppy and introduce them. Preferably a place your other dog already likes to go. Then take them home with you from there. Be careful not to introduce your puppy to the older dogs when they may be protective of their favorite bed, toys, and chews.
Questions:
There are so many great questions that I get asked over and over. I have started this page so I can continually build on these answers for everyone to read if they would like. My way won't work for everyone, but seems to have worked for us the best so far. I will continually add to this page when I can.
There are so many great questions that I get asked over and over. I have started this page so I can continually build on these answers for everyone to read if they would like. My way won't work for everyone, but seems to have worked for us the best so far. I will continually add to this page when I can.